TestMyGears

RGB channel test

Isolate each RGB subpixel channel with pure primaries, secondaries, single-channel ramps, and repeating RGB bars. Spot stuck subpixels, missing channels, and cable faults faster than mixed white or grey fills.

Click to enter fullscreen

Isolate red, green, and blue output

Pure red Paused · Press F for fullscreen
Ready

Channel pattern

RGB channel pattern

Ramp & bars

Direction

What to look for

Clean channel

Pure primary looks solid with no foreign dots. Ramps stay smooth for that channel.

Stuck or missing

Bright dots of another hue, a black primary, or early banding on one ramp — note the channel and check cable/GPU before RMA.

Run & cycle

  • Cycle patterns
  • F Fullscreen

Free RGB channel test — isolate red, green & blue

A browser RGB channel test with pure primaries, cyan/magenta/yellow secondaries, white, per-channel ramps (2–256 steps), adjustable RGB bars, and RGB thirds. Built for stuck-subpixel checks, weak-channel diagnosis, and cable/GPU faults — not a spectrophotometer, ICC profiler, or factory pixel-fixer tool.

Pure channel fills

Fullscreen #FF0000, #00FF00, and #0000FF isolate one subpixel set at a time. Foreign dots or a dead-looking primary stand out in seconds on a clean RGB channel test.

Per-channel ramps & bars

Sweep one channel from black to full while the others stay zero. RGB bars and thirds stress vertical/horizontal subpixel layout the way Lagom-style patterns do — without leaving the browser.

Fullscreen cycle workflow

Auto-cycle every pattern on a hold timer, or step with ← →. Fullscreen removes chrome so edge stuck pixels and thin bars are not clipped by the UI.

What an RGB channel test shows

LCD and OLED pixels are built from red, green, and blue subpixels. Isolating one channel reveals defects that mixed greys and UI chrome hide — and separates panel faults from signal-path failures.

Subpixels vs whole pixels

A stuck green subpixel stays bright on red or blue fills. A fully dead pixel stays dark on every primary and on white. Channel isolation tells you which subpixel is wrong.

Primaries vs secondaries

Cyan (G+B), magenta (R+B), and yellow (R+G) turn off one channel. If magenta looks wrong but cyan looks fine, the red path is the suspect — not the whole panel.

Panel vs cable vs GPU

A missing channel that returns after reseating HDMI/DP is a link fault. A fixed bright dot that stays put across patterns and cables is usually the panel.

How to run an RGB channel test online

About two minutes: raise brightness, start on pure red, fullscreen, then walk every primary and ramp until you know which channel — if any — is failing.

  1. Prep the panel

    Wipe dust so smudges are not mistaken for stuck dots. Raise brightness near 100% for bright stuck-subpixel checks. Dim strong ambient light so reflections do not mask thin defects. See also: dead pixel test .

    Tip Mark suspicious spots mentally, then confirm on a second primary

  2. Isolate each channel

    Start on Pure red, enter fullscreen, and scan slowly. Then advance to green, blue, secondaries, white, and the three channel ramps. Use RGB bars if you suspect vertical stripe or subpixel-layout issues. See also: how to read results .

    Tip Hold 3–5 seconds per pattern — rushing hides edge defects

  3. Separate cable from panel

    If one primary is nearly black, reseat or swap the cable and GPU port, then retest. Persistent colored dots at the same coordinates after a cable change point to the panel — document brightness and pattern for warranty notes. See also: uniformity / bleed check .

    Tip Photograph the defect on the pattern where contrast is highest

How to read RGB channel results

Clean primary

A solid pure red, green, or blue fill with no foreign-colored dots and no large dead patches means that channel is lighting as expected for a consumer eye check.

Stuck or hot subpixel

A fixed bright dot of another hue on a primary (e.g. green on red) usually means one subpixel is stuck on. It often stays visible on black and contrasting fills.

Missing channel / black primary

If pure red looks black while green and blue look normal, suspect HDMI/DP, adapter, or GPU color output before RMA — reseat and retest first.

Early banding on one ramp

Smooth ramps on two channels but early posterization on one often means limited bit depth or per-channel drive quirks — not always a warranty defect.

When to run an RGB channel check

Use this RGB channel test when you need subpixel-level clarity — unboxing QA, a “tint” complaint, a suspected bad cable, or comparing two monitors side by side.

New monitor unboxing

  • Cycle pure R, G, B plus white in fullscreen.
  • Note any fixed colored dots before the return window closes.
  • Pair with a dead-pixel sweep if you find candidates.

Recommended Photograph defects on the primary where they contrast most — that evidence travels better than a vague “bad screen” claim.

Tinted or “missing color” desktop

  • If one primary is near-black, swap cable and port first.
  • Confirm GPU color depth is not stuck at 6 bpc.
  • Only then treat it as a panel or scaler fault.

Recommended A cable that drops red is far more common than a panel that forgot how to make red.

Gaming / high-Hz panel QA

  • Run channel ramps at 64 and 256 steps.
  • Check RGB bars for vertical stripe oddities.
  • Retest at native Hz after a refresh-rate check.

Recommended Channel banding that only appears under heavy GPU load may be bandwidth or link training — not permanent subpixel damage.

Laptop vs external display

  • Run the same pattern sequence on both screens.
  • Note which device fails which primary.
  • Use the laptop’s built-in panel as a known-good reference when possible.

Recommended If only the external fails, focus on dock, dongle, and cable before assuming the portable panel is perfect.

Reliable RGB channel setup

Fullscreen & focus

Run edge-to-edge so bezels and browser chrome do not hide corner stuck pixels. Keep this tab focused so auto-cycle timing stays consistent.

Brightness & ambient light

Stuck-on subpixels are easiest near max brightness. Strong reflections can invent “dots” — dim the room or tilt the panel slightly.

One pattern at a time

Single-select patterns keep your eyes on one channel. Auto-cycle still walks the full set — you do not need multi-checkbox chaos.

Confirm before RMA

Retest after a cable swap and a different GPU port. A defect that moves with the cable is not a panel claim.

RGB channel test FAQs

How is an RGB channel test different from a dead pixel test?

A dead pixel test cycles mixed fills (often including black and white) to find dead or stuck pixels. An RGB channel test isolates single-channel output and per-channel ramps so subpixel-level faults and missing channels stand out on each primary.

Which patterns should I run first?

Start with pure red, green, and blue in fullscreen, then white and the three channel ramps. Add RGB bars or thirds if you suspect vertical stripe or layout issues. Secondaries help when one channel looks weak but not fully dead.

What does a green dot on a pure red screen mean?

Usually a stuck green subpixel — it stays lit while the red field should dominate. Confirm on pure blue and black; if the same coordinates glow green, document it for warranty rather than assuming dust.

Why does pure red look almost black?

Often a cable, adapter, or GPU output fault dropping the red channel — not always a broken panel. Reseat HDMI/DP, try another port, then retest. If red returns, the panel was fine.

Can this fix stuck pixels?

No. This page diagnoses channel output. Pixel-fixer apps flash colors for long periods hoping to unstick a subpixel; success is uneven and this tool does not claim repairs.

Is this a colorimeter or calibration tool?

No. An RGB channel test is a visual isolation check. Accurate white point, gamma, and gamut need a colorimeter plus profiling software — use our color calibration patterns after channels look intact.

Do I need to install software?

No. This is a free RGB channel test online in the browser. Results still depend on fullscreen use, brightness, and a clean screen surface.

How many ramp steps should I use?

64 steps is a good starting point for spotting early banding. Push toward 128–256 steps when comparing two panels or checking whether one channel posterizes sooner than the others.